Kelp Meal Tea Tonic For Our Roses

Kelp Meal Tea Tonic For Rosebushes

Stan V. Griep
Consulting Rosarian
American Rose Society – Rocky Mountain District
Member: American Rose Society
                The Loveland Rose Society
                The Denver Rose Society

We have all seen and heard about the energy drinks on the market today, some are useful to help give us a needed pick-me-up. Others are not so good and can cause more harm than good. Well here is a pick-me-up tea tonic for our rosebushes. The nutrients list for kelp meal is a long one, seemingly jam packed in fact as we all know. The roses really do love their kelp meal as they respond so nicely to it when they get a feeding of it. Without further ado here is how I make my kelp meal tea rose booster tea tonic;

I bought a water or drink tumbler with a wide mouth opening on it and screw on lid with no straw or straw hole in it for the soaking process. I add cool tap water to the tumbler so that it is about 1/3 full. A cup and ¼ of Down To Earth Kelp Meal is then added to the tumbler (you can use more kelp meal if so desired depending on the size of your tumbler as well as your kelp meal of choice).  Add another 1/3 of cool tap water, screw on the lid tightly and shake the contents up well. Open the tumbler up and add enough cool tap water to nearly fill the tumbler. I leave just a bit of air space to allow for the next good shake up of the contents. Screw the lid back on and shake the contents up very well again. The shaking allows all of the dry kelp meal to get well mixed in with the water. Sit the tumbler in a cool place for at least an hour. Shake the tumbler contents at least once more at some point during the hour sitting time.

Once the kelp meal has become well re-hydrated it is ready for the next step in the process. I like to add a little Super Thrive to the tea as well just for a bit more nutrients but you do not have to do so.  The items you will need to get ready to make up the tea are: a clean five gallon bucket or buckets depending upon how much tea you need to make for feeding all of your roses and plants, a smaller clean painters bucket, a tablespoon measuring spoon, a large water dipper with long handle, a bottle of Super Thrive and a watering wand hooked up to the garden hose and water spicket.

Move all of the items out to the garden mixing area and enough tap water to each of the five gallon buckets such that they are only about 1/3 full. Dump the rehydrated kelp meal in the tumbler out into the small painters bucket, this will require more than one shake to get most of it out. There will still be some liquid left in with the kelp meal, pour this liquid off into the waiting five gallon bucket of water or split it equally among all of the five gallon buckets of water using a finger or two to hold back the kelp meal. Now take the tablespoon measuring spoon and add a good tablespoon of the rehydrated kelp meal per gallon to each five gallon bucket. Thus 5 tablespoons of the rehydrated kelp meal to each bucket, stir it up well in the bucket with the watering wand or a long stick. Now add 1 tablespoon of Super Thrive to each of the five gallon buckets of water and kelp meal. Stir it up again. Place the watering end of the watering wand into the five gallon bucket of kelp meal and super thrive mix and fill the bucket(s) up to within an inch or so of the top of the bucket(s). Move the watering wand around in opposing directions as you fill the bucket(s) with more water from the bottom up. This helps get the kelp meal mixed well into the water in the buckets. Once the bucket(s) are full of water our tea is ready to be served to our awaiting rosebushes.  Can you hear them all saying, “Me first please, me first!!”   (smile)

Carry the bucket or buckets of the tea mix to strategic areas of easy access to your rosebush areas. Using the long handled big water dipper, stir the contents of the bucket and draw out a nice dipper full of the tea. Give each rosebush about four dippers of the tea depending upon the amount your dipper holds. My dipper holds 32 ounces of liquid so it works out to a gallon of the tea per large rosebush. For the miniature rose bushes I use 2 dippers of the tea per bush, which is the same amount I give to our other flowering plants such as the clematis and sun roses. Keep stirring the tea with the dipper too prior to each dipping out of the tea.

Watering the rosebushes lightly the day before this kelp tea feeding is recommended, as the light watering helps disperse the tea down into the soils better where the awaiting feeder roots can take it up nicely.

Make some tea up for other plants and shrubs with any of the remaining rehydrated kelp meal in the small painters bucket or apply the kelp into other garden areas and mix it into the soils well. Do not try to save any of the left over rehydrated kelp meal as it can go bad rather quickly and it is best to start with a fresh batch each time. I rinse out my tumbler container and the small painters bucket into one of the final five gallon buckets of the tea mix so that the containers are nice and clean for the next use.

The rosebushes and other plants will love the boost of nutrients, especially if given to them right after a big bloom cycle. It also makes for a great early Spring wake-up call boost too.

Betty Boop – Floribunda Rose Stan V. Griep SVG Photography-2016
Betty Boop – Floribunda Rose
Stan V. Griep
SVG Photography-2016

What Are Guard Petals?

What Are “Guard Petals”?                  

By Stan V. Griep
Colorado Native Rosarian 40+ years                                           
ARS Certified Consulting Rosarian
Denver Rose Society Member
Loveland Rose Society Member
American Rose Society Member

The outer petals on our roses are called the Guard Petals. Guard Petals on roses are the outer and usually larger petals that protect the inner petals of the bloom still to unfold (See illustration pic below.). The guard petals are quite often wilted or have charred/black edges and need to be removed to reveal the pretty new bloom smile behind them. Florists will usually remove the guard petals if the roses are going to be used the same day, as they take away from the beauty of the rose bloom. Many florists and companies raising the roses that are shipped to florists will leave the guard petals on the roses to protect the buds during transit so the rose blooms will be fresh upon arrival.

When we see blackened or wrinkled outer petals on our roses it is typically a sign that the Guard Petals were doing their job of protecting the inner petals for a new beautiful bloom. These guard petals are there to endure damaging late frosts, high heat, wind whipping and other weather challenges that are dished out in our various garden climate zones. The intense sun’s rays (UV) of summer can be too much for even the guard petals to endure and we will see brown crispy edges on our blooms at times. It just is not possible for the rosebushes root system to move enough fluids to the far outer edges of the petals to prevent such petal edge burning. In most cases though the guard petals take a real beating so that the inner petals may unfold open to present a bloom smile that shines and makes our hearts fill with delight.

In some cases these outer guard petals can become water logged so to speak during times of very wet weather. Then when the sun comes out it can dry the buds too quickly which locks the guard petals together. The bud will look rich and full, yet will not open, turns perhaps slimy to the touch, then dies and falls off. If this condition is found soon enough, the guard petals can be gently and carefully removed such that the inner petals will still unfold into a beautiful bloom to enjoy. The guard petals do their best but cannot stop some insect attacks, such as boring insects that will bore or chew through them and make holes and damaged spots on the rose petals of the rose bloom. Thus we must do our part to help stop the insect issues as early as possible in order to save the blooms we enjoy. In some cases this means the use of a systemic insecticide or miticide to truly get protection against the beauty robbing bugs.

The next time you see the charred looking or wrinkled outer petals on your blooms, thank your guard petals for a Job Well Done in doing their duty and then carefully peel them off of the bloom to enjoy the full beauty of the bloom smiles concerned.

 

Guard Petals Illustrated Stan V Griep SVG Floral Photography Of 2016
Guard Petals Illustrated
Stan V Griep
SVG Floral Photography Of 2016

 

"Take Time To Smell The Roses..."
Take Time To Smell The Roses…

 

 

Training Climbing Rosebushes

Training Climbing Rose bushes

By Stan V. (Stan the Rose Man) Griep
American Rose Society Certified Consulting Rosarian – Rocky Mountain District
Denver Rose Society Member

Whenever I see pictures of roses climbing up an ornate trellis or arbor, climbing up the side of an old structure, old fence or even up and along an old stone wall, it stirs up the romantic and nostalgic juices within me. I imagine it does the same for many folks due to the number of photos and paintings there are of such scenes. Creating such scenes does not just merely happen in most cases, it takes some real effort and an ever vigilant rose loving gardener.

Just as it is with raising our children, it is of the utmost importance to start early on in helping guide them as to the proper way to go, training them to follow a good path. First on the list with our rose bushes is to pick the area and structure desired for the climbing roses. The structure being an ornate or plain trellis, arbor, fence, building wall or stone wall/fence, then the area being a place with good sunshine, well-drained soils and a place where we really want an eye-catching focal point in our garden or landscape. Next on the list is selecting the ones that have the color or colors desired, bloom form desired, fragrance and habit desired. We kind of need to stand back and look at the desired area with whatever the climbing structure is in place. Create a vision or mind painting of what our desired outcome is.

After purchasing the climbing rose bushes that meet our needs, the training begins. I like to use either a rubbery wire reinforced rope or stretchy vinyl type tie off material to attach the canes of the rosebush to the structure selected. While holding the canes in place nicely it also allows some flexibility so as not to damage the canes as they fill out and grow. Even with this flexibility the ties will need to be changed out at some point due to growth. We need to wait for the canes to grow enough to tie them off and train them to go in the direction of best support that fits our earlier mind painting. Canes that grow out and too far away from the structure initially can be either pruned out, or monitored for a while as they grow to see if they can be brought back into line and trained in the desired path. Do not make the mistake of letting them go too long though, as unruly canes can make for more work later. Also do not make the mistake of waiting too long to tie off / train even the canes that are going in the right direction, as they too can become unruly in what seems like the blink of an eye. Once they become unruly either our mind painting must change to allow some redirection, or we will need to prune them back and wait upon new growth to guide things back as desired. For training our rose bushes up the side of a building or stone wall, we will need to provide some anchoring sets to tie off to. This can be done by drilling some small holes along the desired training path and setting an expansion or glue in type anchor, perhaps a friction fit type. I prefer either expansion type anchors or glue in type as they do not ten to work loose with wind and growth movement like the friction fit ones seem to do.

I have been called over to do a garden visit at the homes of some folks that just moved into a new to them home where the climbing roses have turned into untamed monsters! This can and will happen if we do not stay vigilant of what the rosebush is doing. This can also happen if the main person tending to them gets ill or passes away. Others do not know how to tend to the roses and they start growing however they wish to without any form of guidance. It really does not take long for the once beautiful mind painting creation turns into a jumbled up mess. There are times when such a mess can be returned to being a vision of beauty but it takes considerable work to get it done. Lots of pruning, stepping back to look at things, lots more pruning, then finally back to where things need to be. With some of the older climbing roses this type of heavy pruning will also mean sacrificing many blooms, as these older climbers only bloom on what is called the “old wood” which refers to the previous season’s growth. Even so, it is best to do the work and bring the beautiful vision back. In some cases, like one I personally worked on, the bush has just gotten way too out of control. The owner wanted it totally chopped down and removed as it had become a destructive monster to her. I asked her to allow me to try to bring it all back prior to removing the bush. I got an apprehensive okay. Late that fall after the bush had started going dormant, the canes were all pruned out and down to within 6 inches of the ground. Drastic move you say? Maybe, maybe not. The following spring the rosebush did indeed send up new growth. The new growth was gradually tied and trained to a nice new ornate trellis which would then trail out onto the fence line on either side. Thus returning to a vision of beauty over time that would cause delight again instead of the feelings of frustration and depression it had come to cause.

Climbing rose bushes are indeed work, they will demand your attention for some time to come rest assured of that. If you are up for the challenge you will be richly rewarded not only by the beauty you behold, but also the ooo’s and ahh’s of delight from garden visitors and those enjoying your photos of the vision of beauty your efforts have created.

Roses Of 2013_June
Blaze Improved Climbing Rosebush – Photo by Stan V. Griep – 2013
Roses Of 2013_June
Blaze Improved Climbing Rosebush – Peaking through porch side of lattice – Photo by Stan V. Griep – 2013

Ever Heard Of Rose Pickers Disease?

Rose Pickers Disease Is Very Real

By Stan V. (Stan the Rose Man) Griep
American Rose Society Certified Consulting Rosarian – Rocky Mountain District
Denver Rose Society Member

I had never heard of Rose Pickers Disease or the Sporothrix schenckii fungus until about 8 years ago now. Had someone told me about Rose Pickers Disease before then I would have thought they were joking with me due to me being a Rosarian. However the disease and the fungus became very real to me when my dear mother fell into a climbing rosebush in her back yard. She got several puncture wounds from that fall and a few nasty cuts. Some thorns had also broken off in her skin. We cleaned her up well removing the thorns and using hydrogen peroxide on the wounds, we thought we had done a good and thorough job. We soon learned we had not! My mother started to develop these hard bumps under the skin that were itchy and then painful, eventually breaking open to drain. I will spare you the rest of the nasty details. We took her to the doctor and then to a specialist that was also a surgeon. The entire ordeal went on for nearly two years with antibiotic drugs, other drugs and surgeries to remove the nodules. Had we taken her to the doctor as soon as possible, be it against her will, perhaps we could have saved her the nasty experience but also perhaps not. The first doctors were perplexed by what they saw and the specialist surgeon told me that he was going to write a medical paper on the entire situation. That is when it really hit me that what we were dealing with was extremely serious.

Researching the disease and the fungus that causes it again for this article did give me the chills I must admit….. Here is some medical information on it for you;

Sporotrichosis is a chronic infection characterized by nodular lesions of the subcutaneous tissue and the adjacent lymphatics that make pus, digest the tissue and then drain. Some of the diseases that may be caused by Sporothrix are:

 lymphocutaneous infection: localized lymphocutaneou sporotrichosis
 Osteoarticular sporotrichosis – the bones and joints may become infected
 Keratitis – the eye(s) and adjacent areas may become infected
 Systemic infection – sometimes the central nervous system is invaded as well
 Pulmanary sporotrichoisis, this is caused by the inhalation of the conidia (fungal spores). Seen in about 25% of the cases.

Sporothrix typically lives as an organism that obtains nutrients from dead organic matter such as wood, decaying vegetation (such as rose thorns), Sphagnum moss, animal feces and in the soil. Sporothrix is especially abundant in areas where Sphagnum moss is abundant, such as in central Wisconsin. It is only rarely transmitted to humans, however when the Sphagnum moss is collected and used for floral arrangements and such uses where it is handled a lot the right conditions are provided for the transmission in some manner. For further medically related information please take a look at this link > http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/guide/sporotrichosis

This article on “Rose Pickers Disease” brings to the forefront the need for safety while we work out in our gardens. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) reports that emergency rooms treat more than 400,000 garden tool related accidents each year. Taking proper care of our hands and arms while working in the garden is extremely important to helping prevent accidents. Wearing those heavy and hot gloves while pruning may feel like a huge inconvenience, they truly do provide us with some great protection. There are rose pruning gloves on the market these days that are not so heavy really and have protecting sleeves on them that extend up the arm for good protection. The thorn on a rose stem or cane provides an excellent device for transmitting infectious material into your skin, as is seen with Rose Pickers Disease from the fungus Sporothrix schenckii.

Should you be poked, scratched or pricked by rose thorns, and you will be if you grow roses for any length of time, take care of the wound properly and right away. If the poke, scratch or prick draws blood, it is definitely deep enough to cause problems, even if it did not draw blood it could still lead to problems. Do not make the mistake of thinking that treatment of the wound can wait while you finish your pruning or other garden chores. I understand that it is an inconvenience to drop everything, go treat a “boo-boo” as we heard them called as children, then go back to work. However it truly is very important, if nothing else do it for this old rose man.
Perhaps it would be worth your while to create a little medical station of your own for the garden. Take a small plastic paint bucket and add some hydrogen peroxide, individually wrapped gauze pads, wound cleaning wipes, tweezers, Bactine, Band-Aids, eye-wash drops and whatever else you think appropriate in the bucket. Take your own little Garden Medical Station with you each time you go out to work in the garden, then treating a wound does not require travel to the house to take care of it. Keep an eye on the wound, even if you think you took care of things properly at the time. If it becomes reddish, swollen or more painful get yourself in to see your doctor!

Enjoy gardening in a safe and thoughtful manner, after all our garden friends need our shadow there!

Spring – “Things to do in the Garden”

 Things to do in the Garden –  Spring_
By Stan “The Rose Man” Griep
Colorado Native Rosarian – Over 40 years experience growing roses.

 

*        Add a nice layer of compost to all the planted garden areas and work in lightly. For the veggie garden add the compost and till it in well. Let the early Spring rains or wet snows get it all activated for some great garden rewards later.

 

*        In Early Spring when leaf buds start to open, prune up the rosebushes. Seal the ends of the canes with Elmer’s White glue to prevent those rose borers from attacking the open cut.

 

*        Clean up all the garden areas of the debris and dead foliage from the Winter.

 

*        Fertilize the lawn and plants. Feed the roses to get them coming back strongly. Water everything well. Don’t forget to feed your trees too!

 

*        Once your roses start to leaf out a bit, it is a great time to make a first application of a good fungicide. That first early application will go a very long way to preventing a Black Spot or Mildew attack on that lush new foliage.

 

*        Check the proper planting time for the veggie and flower seeds and plant them as soon as possible outside. Some things like tomatoes you may want to start early indoors and then move outside when the weather is right. Using the “wall o’ water” protectors will help to allow you to set some plants out early and not have them damaged by those sneaky frosts.

 

*        Get after those weeds coming up in the garden and lawn areas. Getting rid of them early will save a lot of time and work later. I guess you never really “get rid” of weeds but keeping after them is very important to the success of any garden.

 

*        If you have plants that you want to move around, the cool early part of Spring is a great time to do so. The cool and rainy weather will help give the plants roots a chance to get going before the hot weather rolls in. Use some Super Thrive or Root Stimulator on all the transplants to help avoid serious transplant shock.

 

*        For those of you that have those wonderful painted concrete garden and yard ornaments; it is time to wash them off well. Then apply some concrete sealer/ protector to them. This treatment helps seal out the damaging effects of water that may cause your prized ornaments to crumble or crack. It also helps to lock in the color a bit to help them stay looking nice.

 

*        These are just a few things to think about. I am sure you have more where you are. Get out and enjoy your own great outdoors!

Gardening with Arthritis and other such Ailments

Gardening with Arthritis and other such Ailments
A few things to remember to make it easier on you:

·         Work during the time of day that you feel best. For example, if you feel stiff in the morning, then save gardening activities for the afternoon.

·         Avoid working in the same position or doing the same activity for long periods of time. Switch tasks every 30 minutes or so and take 15 minute breaks every hour. Taking periodic stretch breaks can also ease tension and reduce stiffness.

·         If you feel significant pain, stop the activity and wait until you feel better before continuing. If you feel pain the day after gardening, then reduce the difficulty and duration of activity you do the next time.

·         When possible, use larger, stronger joints and muscles. For example, use palms instead of fingers to push or pull, and use arms or shoulders instead of hands to carry things.

·         When possible, use larger, stronger joints and muscles. For example, use palms instead of fingers to push or pull, and use arms or shoulders instead of hands to carry things.

·         Avoid pinching, squeezing, or twisting motions. Avoid activities or tools that put direct pressure on fingers or thumbs.

·         Weed the garden after irrigating or rain, as moist soil makes it easier to pull weeds with less resistance.

·         As hard as it may be to do… Ask for help with tasks that are difficult or cause excess stress.

·         If you must work close to the ground, place only one knee on the ground and keep back straight. When possible, use a stool or kneeling pad.

·         Use mulch in the garden to reduce the need to water.

·         Have a storage area or tool shed close to the garden so that tools are close at hand.

·         Make sure the garden has a nearby water source so that hoses and watering cans don’t have to be carried far. Using drip irrigation systems can alleviate the need to drag hoses and sprinklers around the yard, reducing the strain on joints.

 

Tool Tips 

 

·         Keep pruners sharp to make cutting easier.

·         Wear a carpenter’s apron with several pockets for carrying small tools.

·         Widen tool handles with foam tubing or grip tape to make them easier to grasp.

·         Avoid doing any activities that require gripping for long periods of time.

·         Use a wheelbarrow or cart to haul tools and supplies around the garden.

·         Use ergonomic tools that have long or extendable handles to avoid bending or stooping.

·         When working close to the soil, use tools with short handles that are lighter and easier to manage. Small, lightweight children’s sized tools may be easier to use.

 

                                             

                                                                     

  

Selecting Rosebushes for Your Gardens/Rose Beds

Selecting Rosebushes
By Stan V. Griep
Colorado Native Rosarian
Over 40 years of Rose Growing Experience
 
 

             There are many varieties of roses available for purchase today. There are also many places to purchase rosebushes. On-line purchasing of bare root or potted rosebushes has become quite popular.  On-line purchasing of roses is especially popular when looking for a certain rose that is not available locally. No matter where you purchase your rosebushes, it is extremely important to obtain good high quality rosebushes. Nothing is worse for a beginning rose grower than to purchase a rosebush that is not healthy or has some other problems to start with. I have been contacted by beginning rose lovers that are extremely frustrated over the lack of performance of their new rosebush. I go over everything they did from purchasing to planting of the rosebush first. Then I inspect the actual rosebush to see if I can spot any obvious problems. Many times I have dug down along side a problem rosebush to find that its root system is nearly non-existent. The new rose lover had purchased a bare root rosebush at a local store that even though it was still in its plastic wrapping had started to leaf out. The new rose lover reasoned that the rosebush must be very healthy if it was leafing out so nicely while still in the wrapping.  Once the rosebush was unwrapped our new rose lover noticed that there were not many roots there at all, yet went ahead and got it planted and watered well. A warm afternoon followed soon after planting and all the foliage went limp and died. What once had been a happy and excited beginning rose lover, was now a frustrated and upset rose lover. In many cases that new rose lover feels that he or she did something wrong and thus roses are given the label of hard to grow or very finicky. Most of the time what actually happened was that the rosebush had its root system badly chopped off or cut back at some point either during its harvest for sale or perhaps at packaging time. The limited root system was packed in nice wet sawdust and was capable of getting all the moisture it needed to support the growth it started to put forth while in the wrapping. One the new rose lover took away that wet sawdust packing and planted it in the garden, even though well watered, the new planting medium did not have the same moisture providing availability. Through on top of that the warm to hot afternoon sun and a root system that is not developed or established enough to support any foliage and what you get is limp to crispy foliage very quickly. Most of the time the rosebush will die as the root system is just not sufficient to support it. Thus the passion of growing and enjoying roses gets a much undeserved black eye of sorts.

 

When buying bare root rosebushes always take a good look at their root systems and inspect them for any damage or possible signs of disease. If some areas of the roots look slimy feel free to prune them back to good tissue. If the root system does not look right to you take it back to the store where purchased and ask for another rosebush. If the rosebush was purchased on-line call the company and explain the situation to them. The company will then advise you on how they want you to handle the situation. The company it was purchased from will replace the rosebush in many cases.

Some companies will want the rosebush shipped back to them and then will send out a replacement. The canes of the rosebush must be inspected as well for any damage or signs of disease. If significant signs of damage or disease are found, follow the same steps given previously when finding problems with the root systems.

When purchasing rosebushes that are started in pots it is still necessary to take a look at the root system. Have one of the store or nursery employees tip the rosebush upside down while firmly holding the rose at the point where it enters the soils in the pot.

 

If the soils easily spill out of the pot to the point where the roots are exposed, it has not been in the pot long enough to get the root system growing and developing. In such cases the root system may well be in trouble when it comes to supporting its foliage when removed from the pot and planted in your garden or rose bed. There is nothing wrong with going ahead and buying such rosebushes, just be aware that you will need to keep an eye on the soils moisture and also make some provisions to protect the rosebush from the direct intensity of the sun for at least a couple of weeks. My favorite local greenhouse sells wonderful potted rosebushes that always seem to have very well developed root systems in the pots. When I remove them from the pots the root growth is easily seen and when tipped upside down a little of the top of pot soil may come out but the root zone stays intact. Many folks will say to be sure to get #1 grade roses which is a good idea, however there are times when the marketing folks have a different idea of what makes a #1 grade rosebush than what the typical rule is. The #1 grade rosebush is supposed to be the more mature bush with a better root system and will have 3 or more strong canes at least one of which must be a minimum of 1/2 inch in diameter and 18 inches in length. The #1 ½ rosebush will have 2 or more canes that are a minimum of 5/16 inch in diameter and at least 15inches in length. A #2 rosebush has canes but may all be very small diameters and the root systems are not well developed.

 

Part of selecting a good rosebush has to do with knowing where in your garden or rose bed you intend to plant it. Read the available information on the rosebush or rosebushes you intend to buy. The amount of room a given rosebush needs to thrive can differ greatly from rosebush to rosebush. Some hybrid teas like to stretch for the sky and do not spread out much. One would want to be careful about planting such roses where roof eaves or overhangs are close by. Many floribundas love to spread out and load up with their beautiful clusters of blooms. One would not want to plant such a rosebush in a tight or limited space environment.  Many rose lovers make such mistakes with miniature rose bushes as well. A wonderful lady from California that ran a miniature rose business originally started by her mother once gave me a major tip about mini rosebushes. She told me to remember that the “mini” in miniature roses means the bloom and not necessarily the bush. Thus it is just as important to read up on the miniature roses as well to see what their various growth habits are.

 

Keep in mind that the price you pay for a rose may not be a solid indication of how healthy or hardy the rosebush may be. In some cases I may pay $3.00 or less for a bare root plastic wrapped rosebush and get exactly what I paid for in that it will need much tender loving care (TLC) to get it going and even with all the TLC it will never really make much of a bush, thus all of that TLC was to no avail as the rosebush either did not perform well or died in spite of it. Thus that $3.00 purchase added in with all of my TLC time may equal zero in returns and hundreds in frustration. The same can be said for a potted and started rosebush that costs $25.00 or more as it may not perform well in my garden or rose bed environment but this is far less likely. Once removed from the optimum greenhouse growing environment, some rosebushes go into a bit of transplanting shock. The rosebush may appear to be stuck at a certain stage and existing buds are not opening and blooming.

 

As long as the leaves are looking healthy and not going limp and the buds remain erect and do not go limp, things will be fine in time. What we cannot see is the root system attempting to establish itself into its new environment. Adding some vitamin B1 solution, Superthrive or root stimulator to the soils around the rosebush should help with the shock as well as aid the root system in its development.

 

One of my grandmothers used to totally disbud the newly planted potted and growing rosebushes thus not allowing it to have that first cycle of blooms in her garden. Her reasoning was to allow the rosebushes energies to go into building and establishing its root system rather than making the rosebush try to do both produce blooms and build up its root system at the same time. She felt that usually either the blooms or the root system, sometimes both, had too much of a struggle thus not performing as well in the long run. The buds would open but the blooms will be flatter than they normally would be or will not last long at all. The blooms may be without the fragrance they were advertised to have. Giving the root system its best opportunity to get well established was the top concern, as the root system must be doing well for the rosebush to pass its “winter test” here in Colorado. So, while difficult to do, the total disbudding of newly planted potted and growing rosebushes would appear to have some merit.

 

Basically look every rosebush you are considering buying over very well. Then give it your best efforts to give it a good home that it will thrive in. A happy and hardy rose makes for a happy you! Also realize that no matter how much you pay for a rosebush it just may not thrive and that may not have anything to do with your efforts. I have had three rosebushes of the same name and variety perform totally differently. It comes down to the actual “will of the rosebush”. Some have a strong will to thrive and perform, others need more coaxing to perform and some must be part mule as they are stubborn all the way! If you love the rose and want it in your garden don’t give up on the variety, I encourage you to try another rosebush of the same variety. Seek the joy and peace that truly come with growing roses, do your best to keep frustrations to a minimum by studying this object of your affections. Seek out others in your area that grow roses such as any local Consulting Rosarians for their advice on tending to roses as their advice may well be better than any book ever written for growing roses in your location. A list of Consulting Rosarians listed by State may be found at the American Rose Society website at www.ars.org. I further encourage you to seek a local rose society, go to some of their meetings and check them out. Joining up is optional.

 

Now on to the preparations for planting and actual planting of our rosebushes…

 

WinterMagic100908BHPZ
Winter Magic – Miniature Rose – As captured by: Stan V. Griep

 

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